Sometimes the most rewarding knitting projects are those that combine technical challenges with everyday wearability. My latest finished project—a bright blue lace-textured test knit vest for the phenomenal Gudrun Johnston (@gudrunjohnston)—has quickly become a wardrobe favorite, not just for its vibrant color, but for the subtle technical elements that elevate this vest from simple to special.
The Vision
Gudrun created yet another versatile layering piece that will work across seasons and with multiple styling options. Her Audrey in Unst vest design is perfect: it showcases interesting stitch patterns, has versatile hem options (straight or curved), and is practical enough to wear throughout the year. The vibrant blue Jamieson’s of Shetland’s Shetland Spindrift yarn practically chose itself—cheerful without being juvenile, bold without being flashy.
This project is actually Gudrun Johnston’s take on her Audrey in Unst cardigan design, which I had the pleasure of test knitting in 2021, adapting the garment into a vest while maintaining the signature lace yoke that makes this pattern so distinctive. I highly recommend knitting this cardigan (shown here in Brooklyn Tweed Arbor), which has become another of my wardrobe staples.
Technical Elements That Make All the Difference
German Twisted Cast-On
Gudrun begins this project with a German Twisted Cast-On (also known as the Old Norwegian Cast-On), which proves to be the perfect foundation. This cast-on method creates an edge that’s both elastic and sturdy—essential qualities for a garment that needs to maintain its shape while allowing comfortable movement.
What I love most about this technique is how it creates a neat, defined edge that frames the ribbing beautifully. Unlike standard long-tail cast-ons, the German Twisted method adds a subtle decorative element with its braided appearance while providing just the right amount of stretch. This is particularly important for the bottom edge of the vest, ensuring it lays flat without pulling or flipping up.
For those who haven’t tried it, the German Twisted Cast-On does require a bit more yarn than a standard long-tail cast-on, but the professional-looking edge is worth the extra yarn.
Unst Lace
The yoke features a lace stitch pattern that creates wonderful dimension and visual interest. This textured pattern transforms what could have been a basic vest into something with personality and depth.
German Short Rows for the Perfect Curve
One of the most significant techniques in this project was implementing German Short Rows to create the curved hemline. Unlike traditional wrap-and-turn methods, German Short Rows (or Double Stitch Short Rows) create an almost invisible transition between the shortened rows.
The result for me is a hem that dips slightly lower in the back than the front, following the natural contours of the body. This small detail makes a world of difference in how the vest hangs and moves, eliminating the boxy, rigid look that straight hems can sometimes create.
Sloped Bias Bind-Off for a Smooth Neckline
Another technical detail that significantly improved the finished look is the Sloped Bias Bind-Off used around the neckline. Traditional bind-offs can create a “stepped” or jagged appearance when trying to create curves. The sloped bias bind-off technique allows for a smooth, continuous edge that follows the curve precisely. Getting this right took some concentration and patience, but the result is a neckline that sits perfectly flat against the collarbone without any awkward points or steps.
Construction Notes
The vest is worked with minimal seaming, which creates a clean finish. The ribbed edgings at the armholes and bottom hem provide just enough structure without feeling constrictive. I opted for a simple button band with small, understated buttons—the 11mm organic cotton button in the Boston Fall colorway by Merchant & Mills—that complement rather than compete with the Unst lace pattern.
Styling Versatility
What’s surprised me most about this vest is its incredible versatility. I’ve paired it with:
- Jeans and a simple white tee for casual weekend wear.
- My tiered mustard skirt for a bold, artistic statement (my personal favorite combination!).
- A colorful sundress for more bohemian, creative days.
- A peekaboo knee-length dress with chunky shoes for a cool aesthetic.
It works beautifully with a variety of looks, creating a balanced silhouette that feels modern and flattering.
Lessons Learned
Every project teaches something, and this vest reinforced for me that spending extra time on seemingly small technical details—like special cast-ons, short rows, and bind-off methods—elevates the entire piece. These techniques aren’t just knitting tricks for their own sake; they create garments that look more professional, fit better, and ultimately get worn more often.
bindoffstitches.com 